In this modern age of internet, viral spam and sophisticated marketing, it’s disarming, if not refreshing, to find a winery that does not an ounce of marketing and simply lets their wines do the talking. And the brand may not be a household name or even mentioned in Halliday’s Australian Wine Companion, but Deisen are producing and selling red wines of archetypal Barossarian quality, without exhibiting in a single show or aspiring to any colour of medal.
The brainchild of Sabine Deisen, Deisen focus on producing premium wines in very small quantities. The terms “artisan” and “handcrafted” are terms often bandied around by the industry, but perhaps seldom deserved: though Deisen are a worthy exception. The Marananga sub-region is well known for producing exceptional reds but probably none better than the Deisen Shiraz. They have any number to chose from, though very little of any. For example, at the top end, the Backblock Shiraz 2006 sells at around $85 a bottle but only 18 dozen were made. The 2006 Mataro however, is comparatively prolific as some 180 dozen were crafted and are only now being sold at a $45 price point.
Their back vintage Grenache and GSM blends are sensational, but if value for money matters, at $45 you simply can’t go past the Pete’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. Its Barossa heritage is unmistakable as the wine exhibits a richness and ripeness of the voluptuous fruit from the moment you take your first sip. There’s a hint of candied plums and sweet spices on the nose which is quickly overtaken by the exuberant red fruits and their violet edge that massage your palate before some subtle oak characters muster strength at the back end. It may not be your typical Cabernet, but neither does its maker conform to modern day industry marketing protocols. It will be perfect with the traditional Aussie barbeque, but just as good all on its own!